Monday, September 16, 2013

Both kinds

What kind of music do you usually have here?  
Oh, we got both kindsWe got country *and* western.

This has gotta be my Dad's favourite line from his favourite film, the Blues Brothers.  I must have heard him say this about a thousand times, and it kept popping into my head when we were in Nashville the 'epicenter' of country music.  There are bars on Music Row blasting live tunes all day (and night, I assume!), there are people on the streets who look more than a wee bit country (cowboy boots everywhere - love it!), and then there are buskers like the 'world famous Mandolin Mike' who has been playing on Broadway for the past 12 years.  Nashville really does the whole country centerpiece thing amazingly well, no matter what kind of music you like.  
It's no surprise that our time in Tennesse has been dominated by country and rock n roll.  We have been listening to this stuff non-stop, and we've been absolutely loving it.  Inspired even. As well as a huge appreciation for the music, I have also found myself strangely drawn to things like Johnny Cash's handwriting, or early box office receipts of the Johnny Cash Show, or Dolly's old stage outfits, or Elvis's cars (we all need a pink Cadillac in our lives).  

After getting in touch with our country side (ha), it was time to head to Memphis.  We were driving down the I-40 and all these lyric references we've been blindly singing along to for years started making a whole lotta sense.... For instance: 
  •  "Drink my liquor from an old fruit jar" (Blue Suede Shoes) - meaning the Mason Jars that everyone drinks from here.  Seriously, I thought this was just something that just happened in the movies but everywhere you look people are drinking from 'hillbilly crystal'.  Mr Almost 3 was even served a blueberry smoothie in one of these jam jars.  
  • "Catfish on the table" (Walking in Memphis) - Catfish is mega popular in Tennessee - they are really proud of the fact that it's from local ponds.  (well, I guess we are quite a way from the ocean now..). Also, did you know there is a National Catfish Day?  Who would have thought.  
It is a great feeling to be listening to this music when you are eating catfish, and drinking from an old fruit jar. Incidentally, if you are eating catfish, here's some helpful advice gleaned at the Cracker Barrell Country Store in Jackson, TN.  
Geek-Daddy: "Should I have it fried or grilled?" 
Bethany (our server): "Well, I'm a Southern gal, so I'm gonna say fried is always best"  

Anyway, back to the music.  When we listen to "Blue Suede Shoes" we listen with an ear that already knows the history and the awesomeness of The King.  So I was interested to see what the boys reaction would be to Elvis.  We left a pretty low grade brekker at the Heartbreak Hotel - I'm certain the coffee was made from sticks - to walk over the road to Graceland.  Despite being sans-caffeine we were excited and filled with anticipation.

Picture this.  It's around 9am, sweltering heat, size-able queues are already forming for the Graceland Mansion. Elvis is blasting over the load speakers and there are swarms of visitors standing around, many of these folks have traveled hundreds of miles to make the pilgrimage but all of them are looking decidedly annoyed. Queuing sucks, right?  Enter, two toddlers with no grown-up-hang-ups about the time of day OR the heat, and they are bouncing (in the case of Mr 1), or they are jumping like crazy (in the case of Mr Almost 3), and they're generally just rocking out to All shook up.  Ahhhh, what do the die-hard fans know about how to have fun?  

As well as lovely memories like this one, our musical education of the past days and weeks has had another positive outcome.  Mr Almost 3 has been asking me to play Elvis, Johnny Cash or Dolly Parton pretty much every time we get into  the car.  (No Wiggles CD on this roadtrip.. result!).  So I think we can put this down as a musical win.  

Ok, here are the rest of our fav Tennessee places and eats:  
  • Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum
  • Johnny Cash Museum 
  • Nashville Public Library for it's wonderful children's section and the free puppet show
  • Memphis Botanical Gardens and the extraordinary 'Big Backyard'.  Such a great place for kids.
  • Shelby Farm Park Memphis playground.  More great places for kids.  
  • General usage of 'Y'all'.  Especially 'How are Y'ALL?/Where y'all from/Y'all have a great day now
  • Graceland, especially Elvis' cars and the planes  (I may possibly be turning into a boy). 
  • The tremendous happy vibes brought by the Peabody Ducks who deserve their own blog post.  
  • Gus's Fried Chicken.  Artery clogging goodness.   
  • Silkys Barbeque on Beale Street and the oozy pulled pork and de-lish ribs  
  • Outstanding Pecan Pie from a slightly dodgy looking roadside stop just out of Nashville. 
Goodbye Tennessee and thank you for the music.  I think I better go eat a salad now.